Cold Weather Cleansers

When it comes to parched winter skin, the culprit isn’t the cooler climate; it’s that hissing heater pumping out bone-dry air. To keep skin feeling soft and supple - even when the office furnace is on full-blast - try swapping out your summer cleanser for a nourishing balm- or lotion-based face wash. Read on for daily cleansing tips and the most common questions that crop up behind my counter.

In the morning, perk up your skin with a splash of lukewarm water; hot temps open pores and allow moisture to escape. Rub a dime-sized amount of gel or lotion cleanser between the palms of your hands, then gently massage it into skin using circular strokes to stimulate circulation and flush out impurities. Rinse with cool water and skip the face brushes and washcloths in the AM to preserve moisture and prevent inadvertent exfoliation, which can heighten sensitivity. Gently blot your face with a towel leaving skin slightly damp. Immediately apply your favorite moisturizer or serum to lock in hydration.

At night, make sure to erase the day’s makeup, dirt and grime before bacteria has a chance to seep into pores and cause nasty blockages and blemishes. Splash your face with lukewarm water and apply a dime-sized amount of cleansing balm or lotion with a soft washcloth, using that same circular stroke. Not only is this soothing ritual a great way to relax before tucking in, but the washcloth’s knobby texture facilitates a deeper cleanse while the balm prevents dehydration. Rinse with lukewarm water, pat dry (don’t rub), and slather your favorite night cream on damp skin.

Ask Abby:

Q: How will I know if my summer cleanser is too harsh for the winter? 
A: Don’t worry, you’ll know. If you have dry skin to begin with, your face will feel tight, even itchy, almost like you’re wearing a mask. You may also experience redness and flaking, which signals irritation. If your skin is oilier, you may actually start over-producing sebum, which will lead to acne or a more deeper, painful inflammation of current breakouts.

Q: In general, what cleansers work best for dry winter skin? 
A: On my own dry complexion, I use The Organic Pharmacy’s Carrot Butter Cleanser at night, which is a hydrating balm that preserves moisture while whisking away dirt and makeup. Balms in general are more nourishing and less abrasive than traditional soap-based cleansers. In the morning, dry skin sufferers should stick with a gentle gel or lotion that has calming properties, like The Organic Pharmacy’s Rose Facial Cleansing Gel or Duchess Marden’s Foaming Cleanser (in-store). 

Q: What are a few hydrating ingredients to look for on the cleanser's label? 
A: There are actually two types of hydrators. Occlusives, like petrolatum and lanolin (found in Alaur’s Meristem Cleansing Lotion), keep moisture from evaporating, and humectants, like hyaluronic or lactic acid (found in Embryolisse’s Purifying Milk Wash), draw moisture into the skin. Typically, dry skin sufferers opt for occlusives, which offer a richer texture, while oilier complexions prefer humectants, since they tend to be more transparent. In general, scan the label for moisturizers like shea butter, lactic acid, hyaluronic acid, rose, aloe and vitamin E. 

Q: My skin is oily year-round; do I need to switch my cleanser during the winter? 
A: Unless your skin starts drying out, stick with what works. But if you haven’t yet found a cleanser that keeps skin happy, try Dr. Hauschka’s Cleansing Cream or The Organic Pharmacy’s Peppermint Facial Wash, which is loaded with bacteria-fighting ingredients like tea tree oil, eucalyptus and peppermint, as well as lubricating essential oils. Many of my oily-complexioned clients steer clear of oil-rich cleansers fearing a bad case of shiny face, but the opposite is true. Oil actually attracts oil, breaking it down without over-drying. When it comes to slicker skin, the goal isn’t a total dry-out; it’s to balance the amount of sebum your skin produces.

Q: During the winter, should I wash my face before and after working out, or is that too much? 
A: Sudsing up four times a day is overkill, but post-workout, it is important to de-grease your complexion. Your sweat is packed with moisture-sapping salt and pore-clogging sebum so cleanse your skin with a soap-free, alcohol-free face wash like Odile Lecoin J'illumine. This hydrating, non-sticky milk formulation removes impurities without damaging the skin’s hydrolipidic barrier (its protective layer of oil). If your skin still feels dry on days you hit the gym, apply Clark’s Botanicals’ Deep Moisture Mask before bed (available in-store).

Q: I think my cleanser is aggravating my rosacea, what can I do? 
A: Hypersensitive, rosacea-prone skin should only be washed with a cleansing milk or balm. In the morning, coddle your complexion with a lotion-based cleanser, like Jurlique’s Soothing Cleansing Lotion or The Organic Pharmacy’s Rose & Chamomile Cleansing Milk, to tame inflammation. During the day, keep a bottle of Duchess Marden’s Rose Spray on-hand to boost hydration while quelling redness. At night, try The Organic Pharmacy’s Carrot Butter Cleanser, which calms skin with a blend of chamomile and rosemary. And never wash your face with hot water - this will only exacerbate redness.

Did we skip your winter cleanser question? Just click the "Ask Abby" tab below!